Beads
are small, round and perforated objects which are usually strung to
form necklaces or bracelets or attached to garments or articles of
clothing for decorative effect. Beads are made of a great variety of
materials namely: glass, copper, wood, silver, brass aluminum, bone,
horn, shell, coral, pearl, jet, amber, mineral, including precious
stones, ceramics and plastics.
They
are at times curved, painted or enameled. And they are usually made in
many different shapes, sizes and colours. There are different types of
beads. There is a translucent blue tubular bead which is called “Segi”
or “Popo”. Besides this, we have the opaque and red bead called “Iyun”.
The Segi bead is one of the oldest local beads in Nigeria.
It
was among the oldest local beads excavated in vast quantities from the
tomb of an Oba at a site near Ife. It is said that the oldest red stone
beads early used in ancient Benin Kingdom were brought from Ife by
Prince Oranmiyan, the son of Oduduwa.
There
is also locally made bead called Akori or Aggrey mostly used by Benin
people, which is made from blue coral by Benin craftsmen. Coral bead has
remained popular among the people of Niger Delta areas of Nigeria as
part of the regalia worn by the rulers and kings.
There
are beads called “Akka” and “Erinala” which are local ornaments worn in
Bida, a city noted for its flourishing beadwork industry. The Akka bead
is of different colours: light green; darkbrown, dark-red; blue and
white. The “Erinla” has striped colours.
Bead-making
is an ancient craft universally practised among the various ethnic
groups of Nigeria dating to antiquity. Nok culture provides evidence of
the earliest civilization in Nigeria with some of its terra-cotta
figures depicting human beings, wearing what are presumably strings of
stone beads around the necks, wrists and ankles.
It
is also said that a large quantity of beads was recovered from the tomb
of a priest-king dated 9th century from the Igbo-Ukwu excavation. At
Ilesha in the present Osun State, a necklace of red stone beads was
among the treasures excavated at the tomb of an Oba.
At
Ile-Ife too, some archaeological finds have been uncovered. It is the
red beads that the British archaeologist, Leo Frobenius saw in 1909 at
the archaeological site at Wagadougon which he called “The beads of
Illifians”. Ile-Ife has been known as a famous city for bead making.
It
is said that the wife of Oduduwa, Olokun Senaide established the art of
glass bead-making in the ancient city of the Ile-Ife, and Igbo-Olokun
(Olokun Grave) is known to be her work-shop which covers some acres of
land as long as 12 acres. Bida is noted for its flourishing bead-making
industries for years. In Bida, craftsmen are famous for glass beads.
They make the glass beads from discarded coloured glass which they melt
down and form into beads.
They
also make their glass beads from a mixture of quartz, sand, chalk and
natron. Besides Bida, cities like Ilorin, Kano and Vere in Adamawa are
famous for local bead-making in Nigeria. The method of boring the beads
is said to have originated from old Oyo, and it requires a special
skill. It involves a grinding stone. Thus, the hard red stone is bored
into holes necessary for stringing up the beads. Once the beads are
bored, they are polished. Polishing the beads demands some skill and
patience. The red stone beads have different names such as Agate, Akun
and Jasper.
Today,
bead workers use old jars, plates and bottles of medicines, pomade and
drinks to make beads. They may be more than one or two or three bead
workers in a small round house with triangular windows as their
workshop. They prepare the fire and make it hot enough to melt the
glass.
The
glass is first of all heated in a clay bowl until it becomes sticky and
then a blob of half-melted glass is put on to an iron rod which is
rotated with the left hand and the glass is shaped with iron tongs held
in the right hand. Sometimes, the bead worker adds glass of a
contrasting colour to make the outside of the beads to form strips.
Beads
function as an important part of personal ornamentation. They are used
for decorative as well as protective purposes like amulets or charms and
as a sign of social status among the chiefs and kings.
For
many decades, beads have been used in Nigeria by people of various
ethnic groups. They are used as necklaces and bracelets. In the past if
not to the present, waist-beads are used as an important form of
adornment for women and girls.
Little
girls may wear nothing else but waist-beads till they reach the age of
puberty. Women too, married or single wear waist-beads under their
wrappers or gowns to emphasize their hips as generously proportioned hip
is assumed to enhance feminine beauty. Female artists, performing
certain cultural dances also wear costumes that have waist-beads as a
prominent feature.
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